Blue-ties

Double RL heavy twill khakis take on beautiful purple blue tinted shades.

denim patches in various blue shades in my journal

tear sheet of denim merchandised products in my journal

I went to HK in this past January and was shopping at Lane Crawford men's department. The denim area indeed have not slow down at all, and there are more and more emphasis on taking other complimentary blue shades like purple, lavender, blueberry etc in denim tinting. Even the khakis and twills are tinted in denim shades. It's so beautiful and wearable. Ralph Lauren does it beautifully.

All photos by Studio Lifequartet @2010

Shirt Sculpture: dyed, wrinkled, crushed.

Where: Espirit window display, Taipei.

What: The theme was American road trip Route66

All photos by Jordan K

All right reserved Studio Lifequartet 2010

OEM vs ODM vs OBM

Spring/Summer 2010 OEM/ODM R&D collection

product: men's long sleeve double pocket slim fit shirt

fabric: 2-ply yarn high density cotton + 5 min garment wash

Spring/Summer 2010 OEM/ODM R&D collection

product: men's long sleeve casual shirt + pigment coating wash

fabric: 100% cotton (60's twill, pigment coating, pigment garment printing + garment enzyme wash)

Spring/Summer 2010 OEM/ODM/OBM R&D collection

product: men's slim fit + utilities khakis

fabric: linen/cotton, fine count cotton/linen

最進在派名片時���有人問我甚麼是ODM,OEM和OBM���
在台灣的市場裡���大家對這名詞在IT產業裡比較熟悉���在服裝產業裡只有同行的人比較懂。讓我在這裡講解一下也順便講講人創工場 Studio LQ 能提供的服務。

OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturing “原始設備製造商”
指按照客人原設計稿和規格生產。產品由原公司經營自己的品牌行銷銷售和���這在台灣一般被稱為“代工生產”。比方說美國DKNY, A&F, CK, GAP, RALPH LAUREN等等大的品牌都會有自己的設計團隊���他們需要的是找到符合他們品牌吊性和技術的工廠代工製造。代工廠除了能包辦大量的生產線外���有時還能安排提供其他如運輸���品管等服務。OEM的代工製造商所接的客人都不一樣���所以產品都會掛上不同的品牌商標。在台灣較大型的成衣廠有聚陽實業Makalot, 台南企業Tainan Enterprise 等等。

ODM - Original Design Manufacturing
指為客戶提供設計、製造代工的服務。 ODM與OEM最大的不同點就在於ODM的製造商除了製造產品外���亦包含了為客戶設計產品在內。通常這類型的製造商會從OEM開始���慢慢的轉型成ODM。ODM型的製造商會依客戶的需求���設計和代工生產���之後也會掛上客戶的品牌商標。通常這些成衣廠都會成立研發或類似研發的設計團隊。在台灣的服裝製造業���真正ODM型式的工廠很有限���因為時尚的變數太大���要工廠的技術或研發單位馬上趕上客人的設計需求是非常有限的���所以有時會透過設計和水洗技術去去創新。

OBM - Original Brand Manufacturing

指原廠自創品牌。原廠不但製造設計���製造自己的產品���也同時掛上自己的商標���也包含了行銷和銷售。這通常是個evolution���OEM廠在轉型時會考慮自創品牌以擅長的利用製造技術和物流的資源���希望通過學習到OEM客戶的通路和市場經驗���提高本公司的利潤。

Studio LQ 人創工廠對於以上的apparel manufacturing model都能提供研發research and development���設計 design���產品行銷 product merchandising 和品牌定位branding上的服務。不管貴公司是想提升品牌價值���increase brand value) 或發展新產品 (new product development)���我們都能依需求配合。歡迎來電或來信詢問。。

All photos by Jordan K

Not just your normal shirt

After working as a R&D designer for years , I have learned that the hanging appeal of a shirt does not just happen. It's carefully design to look custom made or authentic. Take this Scotch & Soda shirt for example. The thickness of the interlining in the collar, cuffs, plackets determine crease and wrinkle after wash. The tension of the thread, the sizes of pattern pieces and shape, all play a part in making this garment look like it has been worn for years. All fabric shrink after wash, therefore, the pockets are not just a flat piece of pattern but to make slightly bigger and ease into the seam so when it shrinks, it will automatically create some pulls. The length of the front placket is longer than the shirt length so that it can ease into the shirt and create a 3D placket after wash. It's a carefully thought out and designed casual plaid shirt, not just your normal shirt.