驫舞劇場 MDans2010 Part 4: fabric painting + dyeing 創作過程

Notebook Date: 2.28.2010

Project: costume design
Event: M_Dans 2010
Event Date: 3.05-07 at The Metropolitan 城市舞台
Presented by: Horse Dance Theatre 驫舞劇場
Title: 景 + 樂園
Choreographer: Wu-Kang Chan 陳武康, Chien-Chih Chang 張堅志
Dancers: 張堅志���黃懷德���張子凌���蘇威嘉���周書毅

1 week before performance, here we are having a little fun putting on final touches on costume for 2 new repertoire of M_Dans 2010.

Behind the scene "景" by Wu-Kang Chan 陳武康

Step 1: laying garment flat

Step 2: paint over it with the correct amount of paint + water ratio

Step 3: casually run over the edge of the seam so colors from the back still visible

Step 4: coat it again the second time

Step 5: hanging dry

Step 6: reverse washing it in a washer ( not shown here )

Behind the scene "樂園" by Chien-Chih Chang 張堅志

The dance piece storied 2 friends wondering in Lalaland ( just kidding ! ) Therefore we need the clothes to be vibrant ( happy ) but not overly loud ( trendy ) . Costumes designed to coffee dyeing technique. Pictures shown here Wei-jia Su (captain of the horse gang !) working very hard in assisting the process.....

No time wasting here..

While waiting for the drying process, discussion continues with other dance pieces !!!

brainstorming ideas....either wukang is having a hard time...

or he likes the idea...otherwise..

continue to look for the next one...:)

All photos by Jordan K

All right reserved Studio Lifequartet 2010

OEM vs ODM vs OBM

Spring/Summer 2010 OEM/ODM R&D collection

product: men's long sleeve double pocket slim fit shirt

fabric: 2-ply yarn high density cotton + 5 min garment wash

Spring/Summer 2010 OEM/ODM R&D collection

product: men's long sleeve casual shirt + pigment coating wash

fabric: 100% cotton (60's twill, pigment coating, pigment garment printing + garment enzyme wash)

Spring/Summer 2010 OEM/ODM/OBM R&D collection

product: men's slim fit + utilities khakis

fabric: linen/cotton, fine count cotton/linen

最進在派名片時���有人問我甚麼是ODM,OEM和OBM���
在台灣的市場裡���大家對這名詞在IT產業裡比較熟悉���在服裝產業裡只有同行的人比較懂。讓我在這裡講解一下也順便講講人創工場 Studio LQ 能提供的服務。

OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturing “原始設備製造商”
指按照客人原設計稿和規格生產。產品由原公司經營自己的品牌行銷銷售和���這在台灣一般被稱為“代工生產”。比方說美國DKNY, A&F, CK, GAP, RALPH LAUREN等等大的品牌都會有自己的設計團隊���他們需要的是找到符合他們品牌吊性和技術的工廠代工製造。代工廠除了能包辦大量的生產線外���有時還能安排提供其他如運輸���品管等服務。OEM的代工製造商所接的客人都不一樣���所以產品都會掛上不同的品牌商標。在台灣較大型的成衣廠有聚陽實業Makalot, 台南企業Tainan Enterprise 等等。

ODM - Original Design Manufacturing
指為客戶提供設計、製造代工的服務。 ODM與OEM最大的不同點就在於ODM的製造商除了製造產品外���亦包含了為客戶設計產品在內。通常這類型的製造商會從OEM開始���慢慢的轉型成ODM。ODM型的製造商會依客戶的需求���設計和代工生產���之後也會掛上客戶的品牌商標。通常這些成衣廠都會成立研發或類似研發的設計團隊。在台灣的服裝製造業���真正ODM型式的工廠很有限���因為時尚的變數太大���要工廠的技術或研發單位馬上趕上客人的設計需求是非常有限的���所以有時會透過設計和水洗技術去去創新。

OBM - Original Brand Manufacturing

指原廠自創品牌。原廠不但製造設計���製造自己的產品���也同時掛上自己的商標���也包含了行銷和銷售。這通常是個evolution���OEM廠在轉型時會考慮自創品牌以擅長的利用製造技術和物流的資源���希望通過學習到OEM客戶的通路和市場經驗���提高本公司的利潤。

Studio LQ 人創工廠對於以上的apparel manufacturing model都能提供研發research and development���設計 design���產品行銷 product merchandising 和品牌定位branding上的服務。不管貴公司是想提升品牌價值���increase brand value) 或發展新產品 (new product development)���我們都能依需求配合。歡迎來電或來信詢問。。

All photos by Jordan K

Not just your normal shirt

After working as a R&D designer for years , I have learned that the hanging appeal of a shirt does not just happen. It's carefully design to look custom made or authentic. Take this Scotch & Soda shirt for example. The thickness of the interlining in the collar, cuffs, plackets determine crease and wrinkle after wash. The tension of the thread, the sizes of pattern pieces and shape, all play a part in making this garment look like it has been worn for years. All fabric shrink after wash, therefore, the pockets are not just a flat piece of pattern but to make slightly bigger and ease into the seam so when it shrinks, it will automatically create some pulls. The length of the front placket is longer than the shirt length so that it can ease into the shirt and create a 3D placket after wash. It's a carefully thought out and designed casual plaid shirt, not just your normal shirt.

驫舞劇場 MDans2010 陳武康 Part 3: color test 創作過程

Notebook Date: 2.23.2010
Project: costume design
Event: M_DANs 2010
Event Date: 3.05-07 at The Metropolitan 城市舞台
Presented by: Horse Dance Theatre 驫舞劇場
Title: 景
Choreographer: Wu-Kang Chan 陳武康
Dancers: 張堅志���黃懷德���張子凌���蘇威嘉���周書毅

In costuming dance performance, the approach does not always come from styling and design. The beginning of the concept often lead to multiple creative ways in expressing choreographer's vision. In this project with WuKang Chan, we are trying to explore the possibilities of a pencil/graphite sketch images as shown in this picture. The approach here including putting on powder like substance on the dancers body along with the costume. Since powder sometimes could easily fall of on clothes, painting directly on the fabric of the costume could be an options here. This lead to a series of experimentation on applying color paint to the fabric. The medium we try here is acrylic paint and fabric dyes. Oil paint and water color do not work here for obvious reason. Oil paint does not dry very well whereas water color falls off easily after multiple wash. Fabric dyes naturally is a cheaper options but it diluted quickly and do not provide the kind of intensity of color that we are looking for. Acrylic paint became the choice of medium here.

Golden Acrylic, a popular brand for artist.

Color testing on cotton jersey fabric. The random application of paint intensity on the fabric not only create interesting shades of color, through different seaming and paneling, the paint also looks a bit like cracking on the edge of the seam.

Vivi fabric paint, can be found in any art store.

Vivi fabric paint dissolve into the fabric and does not produce the kind of intensity as acrylic.
If we look closely, there are layers of the same greyish brick color that create a monotone effect without looking too flat. Naturally, costume on dancers in motion already has that 3 dimensional look and we want to continue elaborate that with a little more layers of colors. For that we start with single layer cotton jersey, mismatch with cotton ribbing as cuff and collar, then the color paint over it create another layers of coloring. Then, the level of acrylic paint can apply with several different intensity by either applying thick acrylic without adding any water or just mix with water just like watercolor painting.
Next up: time to put it together in garment form.....putting all together is a challenge, stay tune...

All photos by Jordan K
all right reserved studiolifequartet 2010

Checking in Taipei.

I recently walked across the zebra crossing of Taipei Main Station and took a shot of this older folk. When we think about a person with style ( not trendy ! ) and he definitely had that look. Checking in plaids long sleeve shirt ( notice he folded it up to look a bit casual ) , a wide leg taupish bottom with a beige yoke piece ( cool !) . the old folk was walking quite fast and I had to catch up behind him. He had a yellow umbrella and green canvas tote bag to complete his look.

Costume 點子鞋2010 黃懷德 coffee

黃懷德的新作品,coffee咖啡色,bring a certain intensity in the dance. I want to bring out the focus and concentration that he meant to have for this piece. The color chocolate representing the colors of full attention and focus. After our discussion, we feel that it's best not to have coffee outfit as it's too predictable. 線條的presentation希望在這服裝上可以明顯一點,當然也希望能讓舞者的shoulder看得很清楚,這樣在轉不同的角度和方向時能跟優雅.. 恭喜演出成功,舞者葉名樺的專注力大家都有感受到了吧!懷德加油,期待你下一次的作品,謝謝你的配合!

All photos by Jordan K
all right reserved studiolifequartet 2010

Backstage 點子鞋2010 葉名樺 ponytail

辛苦了兩個多星期的成果,終於在2月6日開花了.謝謝名樺和美麗的舞者們的努力,you guys bring a performance that is delicate, sensitive and funny. The costume really look good in it. Looking forward to more contemporary ballet performance and costume design.

All photos by Jordan K
all right reserved studiolifequartet 2010

What is style ?

Style is the answer to everything..
Style. period. Do you have one ?

驫舞劇場 MDans2010 陳武康 Part 2

陳武康的inspiration image.
Notebook Date: 2.07.2010
Project: costume design
Event: M_DANs 2010
Event Date: 3.05-07 at The Metropolitan 城市舞台
Presented by: Horse Dance Theatre 驫舞劇場
Title: 景
Choreographer: Wu-Kang Chan 陳武康
Dancers: 張堅志���黃懷德���張子凌���蘇威嘉���周書毅

設計舞蹈服裝最具挑戰型的地方不是在於把舞者變瘦���變美或變的很生動之類的���因為那對我來說沒有很難。看舞蹈的人每當看到了舞者穿的服裝就會往往產生了一個想法���她是女的���豔麗���曖昧���他是男的���帥氣���強壯等等。他是學生���上班族���爸爸���老人等等。。有時會被服裝或打扮成有個很明顯的角色���讓觀眾對舞蹈的呈現上產生了主觀上的判斷。

在驫舞劇場���出發點常是從打破這觀念開始���男人跳舞有時也不需要太多理由和角色���大部分的想法會先從肢體開始(2008骨)���有時會有些意境(2007速度���2009正在張高������有時可能是音樂的帶動���2008骨���Yannick Dauby)��� 不管編舞者和舞者的靈感的來源���服裝盡可能是協助他們達到原來想像中的那些感覺但又不超越舞蹈創作���所以不是"舞蹈"舞蹈服裝的開始也是這麼來的。但這也不一定是我們的根據���如果舞蹈的階段是有要角色的地方���只要是自然的���當然我們也不會太刻意避開���只能說大部分的作品的發展會是先從舞蹈上作考量。所以在服裝設計的角度���參與演出的排練和與藝術家們的討論的過程也變的比較重要。因為要索造出無角色���無情緒���沒有太多判斷的image並不是那麼的簡單。想想如果編舞家要的是很明確的角色���其實很簡單���就溝通一下���然後依需求設計。

過程中往往會遇到ideas丟來丟去���有時後會出現一些實驗型的想法���不一定每次都能執行。有時可能會覺得太over, 過度誇張���有時做出來後覺得效果可能不好���也有的時候可能動作需求而執行的���2010“正在張高”滑動背心������這反反覆覆���丟來丟去的創意過程可以說是驫舞劇場裡藝術家們的特色���也是設計驫舞劇場服裝上享受的地方。

在這次MDans春天2010年的作品中���因為是驫編舞者個別的在編自己的作品���所以了解每個人的想法和創意過程顯得比較複雜和挑戰。服裝的設計會在先了解動作的需求而進行。。。

陳武康也來了個從畫面image開始的服裝想法���以彩繪的感覺來溝通了這次的服裝需求。。希望大家stay tune for what happen...

costume design in progress...服裝設計進行中

驫舞劇場 MDans2010 陳武康 Part 1: Rehearsal 看排

Costuming in progress... 服裝設計進行中
1.29.10 看排紀錄
Notebook Date: 1.29.2010
Project: costume design
Event: M_DANs 2010
Event Date: 3.05-07 at The Metropolitan 城市舞台
Presented by: Horse Dance Theatre 驫舞劇場
Title: 景
Choreographer: Wu-Kang Chan 陳武康
Dancers: 張堅志���黃懷德���張子凌���蘇威嘉���周書毅

Duet 張堅志 and 張子凌
There is some kind of expectation for me everytime I work with WuKang, one being as creative and random as he is, I look forward each time to our cooperation in dance project. It is the same feeling this time. It's nice to see that he is not dancing in this piece so he can probably stepping away and provide more insight into the choreography.
It's a 5 men dance choreography with each of them get solos, and some duets, then the cannons. The most interesting thing is after watching the rehearsal, I have no idea where to start. My usual routine is each time after watching a new piece in rehearsal, I would have a focal point as to where to start in term of concept in costume design, whether the dance is fluid, mechanical, happy, sad or even just pure body movement with no special meaning. But not this time. I wasn't sure at the time if wukang was still piecing the ideas together or it's intentionally this way. However, we always find interesting things to start with.
Discussion TO BE CONTINUED.....

張堅志 solo

張子凌 solo
The 5 men piece was danced by everyone during the rehearsal and each one has a different styles in term of body movement, there were so many ideas, it's like surfing TV channel watching it. There isn't a core concept as to where the body leads to, but in the mean time, that's what really caught my eyes as it challenge us to think it costume is suppose to cover up or to show more flesh....
so far these are the beginning images of what we think should look like, basically images of sketches like monotones of Olive Green, Reddish Brown, Clays and so forth..

Group interactions can often lead to interesting changes in proportion as body overlapping each other.

蘇威嘉 has always been one of my favorite dancer in the group, but also the most difficult to costume :)

All photos by Jordan K